![]() When it comes to flushing the fluid the proper way is to bleed the fluid at each caliper while periodically topping off the brake fluid at the master cylinder. As long as you're between the max and min line then you're good. ![]() Once you push those pistons back up, cuz you're putting new pads in, the fluid will rise back up too. If it's low, add some, but also check your brake pad life cuz as the pads wear the piston is further out which requires more fluid to fill the void. Now if you open something around the calipers, like a bleeder, then you must bleed the system, not cuz of water absorption or contamination but cuz you allowed air to enter the system.Ĭheck your brake fluid, just like any other fluid, if it's nice and clean then you're good for awhile, not forever, but awhile. Not too often on a Honda but it still happens. Now he may not have, but he probably did or he honestly didn't know why it failed so he guessed. If you had a car, over 25 years ago, that a "honest" mechanic told you something failed because you didn't change the brake fluid then guess what? He probably lied to you. Yes, if you open something, like the brake fluid reservoir, you're exposing the brake fluid but you close it shortly after, right? The brake fluid doesn't wait for you to open the cap to suck in 10 gallons of water, so exposing it for a sec or two isn't gonna ruin your fluid. If that was the case then if you buy a bottle of brake fluid, open it, use a lil bit, and put the cap back on, then after some time the brake fluid is useless cuz it absorbed water and/or is contaminated. It doesn't absorb water, magically, through hopes and dreams nor does it magically get contaminated without exposure to contamination from outside the system. Brake fluid is 100% hydroscopic which means is must be exposed to the atmosphere to absorb water. The braking system can be subjected to roughly 2000 psi at times, so yeah it's still a closed/sealed system. This post is full of misinformation, some good stuff but also some BS in between. " My interpretation: ".here is how to scalp your customers even MORE!" There are many ways to bleed each wheel assembly, the way it is done isn't as important as doing it until fresh fluid is noted, and no air has been allowed into the line.īTW, I just went to the Phoenix site.here is a quote from that site: "We studied the most successful shops using BrakeStrip and developed the BrakeStrip System™ to help you achieve maximum possible brake fluid exchange profits. Otherwise, it hasn't been done correctly. ![]() The fluid in the reservoir needs to be aspirated and replaced, THEN, kept full as each and every wheel assembly is bled until fresh fluid is escaping. ![]() THAT fluid has been under the most severe conditions, and if the seals begin to degrade (the seals that surround the pistons which push on the pads), you begin to invite expensive repairs.as well as a decreased ability to stop, as the pistons don't retract as well, which makes the pads drag, which makes the rotor hot. That fluid is essentially static in its individual dead-end line. Click to expand.The problem with this method is that the fluid at the WHEELS, where it gets the hottest, doesn't circulate throughout the system.
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